The resurgence of tikanga: Wāhine Māori share powerful journey of getting moko kauae

Hera and her kaitā Tylar Jade
Hera and her kaitā Tylar Jade Photo credit: Supplied- Hera

In Te Ao Māori, women are revered as te whare tāngata - the house of humanity - cherished for their role in the creation of life. 

In the Māori world, before the 'river of time' when only Atua (Gods) existed, one of the female Atua, Hine-nui-te-pō was responsible for giving wāhine 'Te Awa Atua'. Translated to 'The Divine River,' which is menstruation, a women's period.  

For women, the arrival of 'waiwhero' - the red waters - was a means for celebration. It marked not only a physical transition but also a spiritual one, accompanied by rituals, teachings, and blessings. 

Gifts would be given, followed by a ceremonial cutting of hair, as well as an introduction to new arts, karakia and waiata. There would be a hākari, and whānau and hapū would share kai. 

Among these blessings was the receipt of 'moko kauae', symbolising new beginnings and ancestral connections. 

However, the passage of time, marked by colonisation, saw many of these sacred practices fade into obscurity. Māori culture and traditions were suppressed, leading to a disconnection from ancestral knowledge and identity. 

Te Reo Māori, once the vibrant language of Aotearoa, was marginalised and suppressed in schools, with only a handful of private kura valiantly preserving the language.  

By the 1980s, less than 20 percent of Māori could speak their native tongue, and even fewer utilised it within their households. Tāngata Māori found themselves increasingly alienated from Te Ao Māori and its cultural practices. 

Despite these challenges, a cultural renaissance began to take root in the 1970s, as Māori leaders recognised the decline of Te Reo Māori. Rōpū emerged with a commitment to revitalising the language and tikanga.  

Resurgence of tikanga Māori 

Fast forward to 2024, a resurgence in the wearing of moko kauae reflects a growing movement among wāhine Māori to reclaim their Māoritanga and challenge the legacy of colonisation. 

This reclamation finds expression in online communities like the 'moko Kauae Aotearoa' Facebook page, where over 15,000 people alike share their kōrero and journeys of cultural revitalisation. 

Among them is Hera Hemoata Waipouri-Green (Sarah Barbara Green), a descendant of Te Aupōuri and Te Rarawa, who recently received her moko kauae after a three-year-long battle with breast cancer. 

When wāhine speak about their moko kauae journey there tends to be a reoccurring kōrero... The sense of belonging that comes from receiving their marking and the feeling of immense pride and honour. 

Hera agrees her moko kauae is the start of a new journey.

Hera wearing her moko kauae proudly
Hera wearing her moko kauae proudly Photo credit: Supplied- Hera

Whakapapa: Roots of resilience  

Hera's journey begins in Pawarenga, a small town nestled on the West Coast of Northland, where she reflects on her upbringing as a blend of good, bad, and at times, ugly.  

While it was a really "once were warriors" type of upbringing, the youngest children of 19 said many of her whānau changed for a better life.  

Hera was raised on a farm by her mother after losing her father at the tender age of two. She attributes her resilience to her father's legacy as a member of the 28th Māori Battalion, who fought for 'our freedom.'  

Following the lines of history, Hera and her siblings followed a Pākehā education because at that point in time, 'they couldn't see there was a future for our Māori world yet. ' 

However, despite this, she explained that during her upbringing it was all about mātauranga Māori. 

She said that learning about your turangawaewae, learning the whakapapa of your extended whānau, iwi, hapū and tikanga was of extreme importance.  

As Hera reminisced on her tamarikitanga, she said she was extremely grateful to grow up on the marae and be surrounded by Te Ao Māori. Despite the impacts of colonisation on many Māori communities, she is thankful for her nannies for instilling in her an appreciation for tikanga Maōri. 

Three Marae in Hera's hometown
Three Marae in Hera's hometown Photo credit: Supplied- Hera

Her mother was te Kuini (the Queen) of three marae in Pawarenga, so she has plenty of fond memories with the local nannies and kaumātua 

"The reo was rere tōnu, rere tōnu te reo from these cuzzies," she said.   

She recalled the nannies telling her to sit in the marae instead of play, "you go and sit in the marae moko, haere te noho" they would tell her.  

To which her younger and playful self would reply, "ēnei te haere ki te tākaro nan." 

Receiving: Unveiling a tāonga 

The desire for a moko kauae has always lingered within Hera's heart since her childhood encounters with a kuia who wore one. 

"There was only one kuia who wore a moko kauae," she said. 

"When this kuia visited town, I remember thinking, wow, she is beautiful, I wonder if I'm allowed to get one of those."  

She explained the kaumātua would point at the kuia, and say to Hera, "you see that, if you want one of those, (moko kauae) you have to work really hard." 

"Work really hard at what?" she laughed.   

To the left: Hera and kaitā Tylar Jade. To the right: Hera and whānau
To the left: Hera and kaitā Tylar Jade. To the right: Hera and whānau Photo credit: Supplied- Hera

She recalled a moment shared with her oldest son, who over sharing a cold beer brought up the conversation of Hera receiving her moko kauae.  

At first Hera thought, "where on earth did this come from?" 

"You've had some challenges like we all do, and if you overcome these challenges, you're worthy of having one mum," he told her.  

And so, she did. 

Hera spoke with the elders of her whānau and after 8 years of overcoming plenty of life-changing hurdles, she unveiled her tāonga, her moko kauae. 

On Easter Saturday 2024, in the comfort of her own whare, surrounded by her closest family members, Hera would have her moko kauae unveiled by the talented Tylar Jade.  

"My kaitā was amazing," she said.  

"The journey I share with Tylar Jade is of manaakitanga, puawaitanga, whanaungatanga, kaitiakitanga and aroha."  

She recalled the emotional power and pull of receiving her moko kauae.  

"Before getting my moko kauae, I was everywhere," she said.  

"My mind and wairua wasn't settled yet." 

But on receiving her moko, she explained that not only was it an extremely spiritual experience, but it also unearthed an abundance of fond memories.  

"I realised how much they (whānau) taught me." 

Hera and her daughter
Hera and her daughter Photo credit: Supplied- Hera

Reflection: Born again

Since receiving her moko kauae, Hera has embraced a newfound sense of confidence and purpose. She said her "true self" has now been revealed and provided her with guidance on how the rest of her life will go. 

"My moko has already settled my thinking and wairua on the direction my life will go."  

Her journey has reaffirmed her pride in her whakapapa and the resurgence of Te Ao Māori in Aotearoa. 

Her moko kauae, she said, is a tribute to her father's sacrifice, her upbringing, and the teachings of her ancestors, grounding her in Te Ao Māori. 

"My moko is a tribute to my dad and mum for what they instilled in me alongside all my mentors of Te Ao Māori. A tribute to my husband and children and his whānau." 

As well as finally revealing her tāonga, Hera said witnessing the upsurge of rangatahi Māori embracing their cultural identity fills her heart with joy.  

"We all have our personal reasons for getting a moko kauae, and I understand. And I support that wholeheartedly, especially with our 20th-century rangatahi." 

"It doesn't have to be all about Te Reo Māori," she said.  

"It's about identity first and foremost."  

She said it is beautiful to see more wāhine Māori embracing moko kauae.   

"When we come across each other, we can converse in Te Reo again," she added.  

"It's about acknowledging each other and being able to say I'm Māori."